Eyüp – Pierre Loti's Place of Inspiration

A Stroll Through Istanbul's Oldest Ottoman District

Sep 19, 2009 Inka Piegsa-Quischotte

The Pierre Loti Cafe, views of the Golden Horn, the cemeteries and a cable car stop are Eyüp's most famous attractions, not to be missed on a sunny afternoon.

Any visitor to Istanbul is definitely never short of places to go and see. Few other cities accumulate such an abundance of major historical sites within walking distance of each other than the Sultanahmed district of Istanbul.

However, there are many other places to enjoy particular "Turkish Delights" and one of them is Eyüp, the green and leafy district, full of mysteries and overlooking the Golden Horn which separates the Asian from the European part of Istanbul.

Eyüp and its Cemeteries

The district supposedly takes its name from Eyyup al Ensari, a close friend and companion of the prophet Mohammed, who died here in the 7th century. His tomb became the center piece of an ever extending trend of the Muslims of the Ottoman Empire to be buried near him.

During the times of the Ottoman Empire, Eyüp and the adjacent shores of the Golden Horn became the dwelling of rich merchants who moved here to build their grand houses and to enjoy the fantastic views over the water and the fresh breeze which blew off it.

Today, the cemetery of Eyüp is the second largest in Istanbul and many mausoleums bear witness to the city's richest families. Famous foreigners also found their final resting place here, but not Pierre Loti. The richly carved headstones are worth a visit as works of art and on many a weekend during the hot summer months, the locals escape here for a meal or a coffee in one of the many restaurants which are located close to the cemetery.

The Pierre Loti Cafe

The most famous among the cafes is the Pierre Loti Cafe, situated on the hill of the same name. Pierre Loti, the French 19th century novelist, travel writer, naval officer and Turkey enthusiast choose a house in Eyüp to live in and to conduct his clandestine, extremely dangerous love affair with a married Turkish woman.

It's easy to see how he got his inspiration from long walks in the cemetery and from contemplating the views from one of the cafe's tables, dressed in traditional Turkish garb and attended by his faithful Turkish servants.

The cafe, which is very romantic with its wobbly iron chairs and tables set under vast ,overhanging trees, stretches along the walk way with the shore of the Golden Horn on one side and the cemetery on the other. The interior is full of memorabilia and pictures of the writer and traveler which evoke a vivid image of the Orient inspired romaticism of his time.

Eyüp's Cable Car

It may come as a surprise, that one of Istanbul's many means of public transport is in fact a cable car. But, there it is, leading across a valley from Dolmabahce Palace to the Parksa Hilton with a stop in Eyüp.

Admittedly, it's not a very practical way of covering a distance, but it's very pretty and picturesque, offering lovely views of the valley and the ever changing light of the Golden Horn.

Walking through the narrow streets of Eyüp, visiting its many small street markets and bazaars which are less lively but more artistic than the big ones of the city, make for a wonderful outing and a change from the overwhelming marvels of the Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque or the Topcapi Palace.

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